Monday, April 21, 2008

Finn & Jasper Do Brunch - Bacchus

This last Sunday morning was gray and rainy. It had been a busy weekend and while we were up early to run a time specific errand we were exhausted and were considering a very quiet day at home. The problem was that we couldn't even be bothered to make a decent breakfast and knew Finn would soon start agitating for something to munch on. I was wrapped up in a comforter multi-tasking - watching TV and randomly surfing the web - when my laptop informed me I had a new piece of mail. Seems the Foodies had gotten a late start to the day and were lamenting that it was probably too late to get together for brunch. Not so, I replied, we're moving in slow motion as well. Foodies suggested Bacchus after they went to a craft show. We replied, cool. This conversation actually took place over short emails and took nearly 2 hours, the rain had turned us all to slugs.

So, pushing the edge of Bacchus' closing time we arrive around 2. At first I felt bad for the staff but they seated two tables after us so we weren't going to be the lone table holding up the staff. We arrived a bit before the Foodies and ordered some coffee. Coffee and water arrived. M sent hers back as, once again, the lipstick on the rim did not match hers. This has been happening a lot lately. Someone really needs to invent a lipstick that sticks to the lady and not everything else and servers really need to look before they bring you a glass.

The Foodies arrived with little Jasper in tow. We greeted and settled in for some food.

Foodie and I tried to be on our best behavior under the watchful eyes of our wives but it was not to be. We must be reading each others blogs as Foodie noted the lack of butter arriving with the bread and commented on the service being slow, normally areas where I am most vocal. I took up his mantra of affordable noting a clam entree for $10 but add pasta and it goes up to $16. A while later our food arrived....

M had a Mushroom Fritatta. It was large and a bit heavy. Light on mushrooms and eggs but heavy with potatoes. Personally, I didn't think the description matched the dish. M said it was good but would have liked more mushrooms. I tasted it, not too bad, but more fungus would have made it much better. If you wander into Bacchus hungover this may be the dish for you.

Mrs Foodie had the Shrimp Scampi. She was happy with the garlic levels and Mr Foodie said he never complained when she had garlic breath. Sounded like a winner to me.

I threw Foodie for a loop and ordered the Seared Scallops with Spinach & Bacon. He was thinking I would go for the Saffron Eggs, a dish that had caused some discussion a while back. My dish ended up being a mixed bag. The scallops, 6 or 7 medium sea scallops, were seared and seasoned perfectly, a very nice treat. The spinach could not have been sauteed any better. Just a hint a vinegar to flavour but not enough to pollute the scallops sitting on the spinach. The bacon made no sense. I assumed it would have been minced and in the spinach. Instead it was two slices laid over the dish. It looked and tasted a bit like the bacon you get at Denny's. Added nothing to the dish.

Since I went for the seafood Foodie went for the Saffron Eggs. I tasted them and they weren't bad. I am guessing the saffron wasn't blended with the eggs correctly as Mr Foodie gave Mrs Foodie a taste and asked if she could detect the saffron. The eggs were good, and Foodie liked the price ($5), but they fall under my category of 'items that you can make at home and shouldn't order out'. For those of you wanting to make this at home here's how as this would be a great dish if you have guests for brunch:

Eggs (get local fresh organic at Belmont Butchery)
Saffron
Kosher Salt
White Pepper
Half & Half
A few drops white wine vinegar

Beat it all together and let 'steep' in the fridge while you entertain you guests. This will allow the saffron to infuse a little better through the eggs. Cook until think they are congealed but not quite, remove from the heat and put in a warm serving bowl. The residual heat of the eggs will finish the cooking. If you scramble until fully cooked they will keep cooking after you remove them (that pesky residual heat) and they will release all the captured moisture into your serving bowl or on your plate leaving you with dry eggs and wet toast. I haven't listed actual portions as that is dependent on how many people you are feeding. Try it on yourself at home first and figure it out.

Both Foodies dish and mine contained potatoes. They were OK but Foodie needed to add hot sauce and I needed to add pepper but the mill on the table wasn't functional. Not very well seasoned. A couple of bites in and, well, if you were polite you would call the potato 'firm'. I called it undercooked. I asked Foodie if he had the same problem. He replied no and then a couple of bites later changed his answer. The consensus at the table was that, in future, order the polenta as a side instead.

Restaurants typically break even or even lose money on brunches or lunch. The dining window is too short and people don't order many of the high profit items like cocktails and wine. It is, however, a way to showcase their strengths by getting people to come in at lower price points and lure them back for the real show, dinner. Bacchus did well enough for me to consider them for another try at brunch but I'm not quite ready to make that dinner investment.

Jasper was a perfect gentleman through the meal. OK, he was asleep. As we wrapped up he made it known that he was ready for his brunch. Finn had hit his expiration as well and was dancing through the restaurant. As a note to that I can say that I have been happy with Richmond restauranteurs treatment of us with Finn with only a couple of exceptions. He is typically well-behaved, less so when we go out with friends, but they have made him feel welcome and indulged him. That's a good way to get parents back.

3 comments:

RVA Foodie said...

Considering how close Bacchus is to my house and how much I like to drink coffee and eat eggs at restaurants on the weekends, I am not able to be completely honest or objective about our experiences there thus far. The menu is really exciting for the adventurous eater and for the spendthrift. I really feel like they're onto something. Improvements could be made to the speed of the service and the seasoning of the food has been pretty inconsistent. But, they haven't been doing the brunch thing that long.

For the record, once home, Karen said that her shrimp/scallop scampi was overpowered by undercooked garlic and brandy sauce that hadn't had enough of the alcohol cooked off. Good ideas with good components, but... For a quick solution, I'd say turn up the heat under the food and it'll be tastier and ready quicker. Regardless, if the sun is shining, I'm pushing my stroller back there.

Bookstore Piet said...

If I lived where you did we would probably be regulars at Bacchus, at least for brunch. Convenience, in this case walking distance, will cause one to overlook a host of sins. Since Bacchus only committed a couple of minor errors I would keep this on my card of brunch places to go to.

The scoop of Karen's scampi confirms my reluctance to try dinner. Brunch was reasonable in price but I need a bit more confidence in the food before I drop bank.

RVA Foodie said...

I tried to lure a fellow blogger to Bacchus next weekand they saw this review and said "no thanks." And yet, I'm still excited to return.

Bourdain describes brunch as the service that receives a restaurant's most picked thrut product and the least experienced chef (it's the shift that no one wants). In Kitchen Confidential, the job of putting on a brunch is made out to be less about serving a meal than convening a lazy gathering.

Maybe we're judging Bacchus by different yard sticks (the location thing, like you said). Sure, I'd like to see those potatoes in the frittata a lot smaller and spaced out with more eggs/shrooms. And I don't know why bacon was placed on top of your entree instead of being integrated.

What I did notice is that we each were attracted to something different on the menu and there were other yummy-sounding dishes that we didn't get to explore. Not everything was great, but after a few visits, I'll probably know what IS reliable and delicious (for me) and I'll pass the word on to our readers about successful negotiation of the Bacchus brunch menu. Also, they seated an incomplete party just under the wire and were good sports all along.